Makeup isn’t only used to make a woman or actress look more beautiful but it’s used to make any actress or actor, or even model for that matter, appear in a different form than they are. The makeup helps paint a picture for the audience on who the character is, and gives more of a sense of realism to the show. No one would enjoy watching the production Cats if the actors were dressed and looked like normal people. Just as with acting, the makeup helps sell it. An actor can do a damn good impression of an elderly man, but if the actor is only 18, it’s going to look more funny than if he had attempted a bag age makeup.
The basic fundamentals of theatrical makeup start with highlighting and shadowing. Through the use of makeup, specifically highlighting and shading, the apparent shape of an actor’s face can be changed.By highlighting the face’s protruding bones, the features become pronounced; shadowing cavities can add depth.Sagging jowls, forehead wrinkles, eye pouches, and prominent veins can be created by manipulating highlights and shadows.A highlight is a base makeup that is at least two shades lighter than the base. It is applied on the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, and areas under the eyes and below the brows. Using a color two shades deeper than the base provides depth and definition. This depth is commonly used on the eye sockets, to thin the sides of the nose, to shallow the cheeks, and to minimize heaviness under the chin.
Because stage actors are seen from farther away than actors on screen, it is crucial that their makeup is more dramatic and professionally done. Many higher-learning institutions have drama departments where all aspects of theater are taught, including the art of theatrical makeup. Some independent agencies also provide classes in theatrical makeup, and online courses are also available. Through training, makeup artists learn important techniques such as hand-eye coordination, ability to draw straight lines and consistent shapes, creativity, good grooming and personal hygiene habits, etc. Many makeup artists who specialize in theatrical makeup build portfolios to show their clients and employers. Many of them work as freelance makeup artists or work for cosmetics brands in department stores.
Many people get these confused for what they are and what they do. While permanent hair color is, well, permanent. Demi is a little different. Additionally, while they both deposit color, they do so different as well.
To begin, permanent hair color is recommended for gray
coverage or on virgin hair that needs to be lifted just a couple levels.
Nothing too drastic though. It will have a uniform color where most people’s
natural high and low lights won’t show through. Even though it says permanent,
the tone in most people’s color will fade in about 6-10 weeks. The color will
still be in the hair, it just won’t look as nice as the day it was done. It is
also the hardest to get out of the hair if one wants to go lighter or do some
kind of color correction.
Demi-permanent color is recommended for those wishing to deposit color and their hair, maybe go a little darker, or adjust the tone of the hair without having to deal with the strength of a permanent color. Most toners are considered demi. This is not recommended for gray coverage as it only deposits color and will show through the natural highlights. This means that if you have black hair and color with a golden tone demi, your grays will look gold. This is not always a desirable result. Demi typically lasts only 4-13 weeks and needs regular refreshing. The bonus of this is that if you want to switch it up, you easily can!
Written by Modern Salon’s Stacey Soble, this article
features Green Circle Salons recently becoming certified as a B Corp. A Benefit
Corporation certification is granted by B Lab Company which ensures for-profit businesses
“meet rigorous standards of social
and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency” (Soble). Patagonia
and Tom’s being the most famous B Corps, these companies make it a mission to
do more good for this planet than harm. The company’s policy’s and practices
are evaluated to determine the level of environmental and social responsibility
the company is taking.
Green Circle Salons has
realized the impact of non-recyclable waste salons generate and have vowed to
reduce the amount of waste the beauty industry produces. The company spent it’s
first ten years “focusing on innovating, recycling, repurposing and reusing
beauty waste” (Soble). Basically, they send garbage and recycling receptacles
to salons so the salons can send it back to Green Circle to properly disposed
of so waste can be reduced.
What stood out to me about this article is that it a taking
about a company in the beauty industry becoming a B Corp. The beauty industry
talks a lot about how they want to see a better planet, but I honestly rarely
see where these companies are actually doing that on a social or environmental
level beyond making their clients feel beautiful then charging them way too
much for beauty services. Honestly though, I don’t feel like this article was
written with much attention to detail. It is a professional publication in a
widely acclaimed magazine; however, the article doesn’t even say specifically
what or how Green Circle Salons enacts their mission. I had to go to their
website to understand that they have salons send their garbage back to them. The
article mainly just mentioned how the founders realized the beauty industry
creates so many pounds of garbage a year and they’re trying to reduce that
number. Then the quotes from the CEO and other employees are block quotes that have
no integration into the piece. They are merely marked with, “Team members at Green Circle Salons have a lot to say on the
matter:”
I would say
the content of the article was very good and the writing was mostly good. I
appreciate how B Corps was explained because not many people know what that is.
Also, the article uses colorful and expressive language to discuss the company
and its mission. It’s somewhat conversational in tone, making it very easy to
ready. My biggest complaint would be that the article felt like it was rushed
when it was written so the interviews or quotes were not properly integrated
into the piece to help the flow.
As the season changes from the vibrant orange and sienna
tones of the fall and we enter into the cooler violet and plum tones of the
winter, we can expect to see changes in wardrobes, hairstyles, and colors. With
the days getting shorter and cooler, we finally must put away our sun dresses
and prepare for sweater weather. That also means that with the seasons changing
from warm and sunny to cold and wet, adjusting your styling routine will help
to maintain that effortless look you desire!
Tips and tricks to keep your hair perfectly styled this
winter!
Try some lowlights
Feeling like your bright summer blonde needs a winter refresh? Bright colors are fun, but as we approach winter, trimming those sun-damaged ends and getting a set of lowlights put in can really help revive one’s hair. Lowlights are the opposite of highlight. Instead of putting in some brighter pieces, lowlights are a great opportunity to add a richer more vibrant and dimensional look to any style! It’s especially a great way to dip your toes into color for those who are reluctant to make the jump into an all over color!
2. Consider winterized tones
The left has warmer, more summer tones while the rights, has cooler, more winter tones.
Ever heard of the winter or summer blondes?
Summer blondes are usually more golden while a winter blonde has more pale
tones with hues of lavender or blues. Getting a color treatment to take that
gold to icy is a great way to update your color for the season!
Don’t have blonde hair but still want a winterized effect?! No worries! Adding some violet or maroon tones to brown or auburn brunette hair can really give it that fresh winter look.
3. Update your products
With the dry heat summer gone and the cold
days of winter coming, protecting from sun damage is still important! Bumble
and Bumble’s Hairdressers Invisible Oil Primer spray is a great start to every
morning routine! Whether blow-dry styling, flat ironing, or just wearing your
natural texture, this heat/UV protectant can help maintain any hair style from
heat, sun damage, and external elements. This product is so great because it
also softens, detangles, de-frizzes, tames flyaways, eases styling, and
protects against breakage. It’s a great go-to all-in-one that is a must for any
style routine!
Does your hair get excessively frizzy during
the wet weather? Or are your flyaways and frizz too wild for just a lightweight
spray? Try Bumble and Bumble’s original Invisible Oil! This great product is a
transformative blend of nourishing oils the vanishes into the hair, leaving a
smooth feathersoft feel and trace of shine. Flyaways disappear with this UV
filter and heat protectant. Simply start with one pump and work it into the
hair starting at the ends and working your way up the hair shaft as necessary.
Frédéric Rozé holds one of the highest positions is one of the biggest companies in the United State and even the world. He is the President and CEO of L’Oréal USA and Executive Vice-President of North and South America. L’Oréal is not just a big name hair product company, it is also one of the biggest holding companies in the world, like Nestle, PepsiCo, and Coca Cola. Having been with the L’Oréal Group for over 30 years, Rozé has held various positions for some of the company’s Consumer Product brands.
Personally, I find the L’Oréal executives to be interesting people because not only do they run the worlds biggest hair product company, but they also run plenty of other major companies. These people are those powerful business people who you always hear about but never see. They don’t make themselves public figures like some of the CEO’s here in Silicon Valley so much less is known about them. As someone who is aspiring to work my way up to hold positions like Frédéric Rozé, I would love the opportunity to pick his brain about how he got to where he is.
What inspired you to choose this career path?
What are some of the biggest challenges you
faced early in your career?
When did you know you wanted this position?
What did you do to achieve this position?
If you could go back and do things differently,
what would it be?
What advice would you give to someone who is
pursuing a similar position?
I used to use plenty of expensive products from high-end salon. My average products would cost me about $20 a bottle for shampoo, conditioner, leave-in treatment, and a hair oil. This hair addiction thing can get expensive. One of my favorite lines was Kevin Murphy. I used to use their Blonde Angel shampoo and conditioner along with their Young Again oil. These three products retails at $30 each. I got a discount because I’m a beauty professional but it still wasn’t that much. I have very dry, damaged hair from all my highlights so I need to use a lot of moisturizing products to keep it healthy. I also used toning shampoos and conditioners to prevent my cool tones from fading. The products were nice, but they didn’t really do enough. I felt like I had to keep using more of this expensive product to feel like I used enough. The Blonde Angel shampoo and conditioner didn’t tone my hair as much as I would have likes and didn’t offer enough moisture or my hair. I have to use the Young Again oil to add moisture back into my hair, but I had to use so much that I felt like I was going to spend too much money maintaining my hair. I was desperate to find products which could actually work.
Alternatively, eSalon’s products are great! Every shampoo and conditioner in their line will add a ton of moisture and shine back into the hair. Immediately upon using their shampoo, one can feel a difference. Gliding a brush through your hair has never been easier after using their products. Combining their Leave-In Conditioner with Shine Silk is the best boost of moisture. When used on wet hair, these products will keep your hair looking healthy and shiny! And their Tint Rinses actually work to help tone out unwanted colors! They even have products to boost whichever hair color you have! That’s something most brands cannot say. And they best part about it? Most of their products retail at only $15 each! This makes eSalon’s great products even better because they’re actually affordable. eSalon’s products actually work amazingly!
I hate sounding like an annoying salesperson for my company, but I must say, I was very impressed when I started using their products. They’re definitely worth a try!
I’ve worked at many different salons of many different
sizes, with many different styles. For the most part, I’ve worked at outdated
salons that needed a major renovation. One of my salons actually underwent that major renovation while I was
still there. There are salons with a fresh, modern look but usually in a place
like that, you can bet on paying upwards of $100 for just a simple haircut.
Typically, when you sacrifice cost, you also sacrifice
style.
So I was very surprised when I discovered my current place
of employment, eSalon Color Studio in San Francisco just off Market Street.
When looking at the colorful and professional website, this
place seems like they know what their doing. Knowing that this hair studio is
located just steps from San Francisco’s busiest road, it must be nice. Though
considering a new client hair color costs just $35 and include a blowdry at the
end of the service is unheard of. Prices that low, one expects a shabby shack,
not a chic studio.
Walking to the eSalon Color Studio, you’ll pass stores like
Macy’s, Lou Boutin, Chino’s, Dolce and Gabbana, and many other high-end
retailers that make the area feel like you’re walking through a shopping
district you could never afford to be in.
Upon entering the color studio, popular music fills the air
and you’re quickly greeted by one of the smiling stylists offering complementary
drinks and checking you in for your appointment. The walls are painted in
modern pink colors of baby pink to salmon colored. The furnishings are thoughtfully
designed, and the lobby area has neatly organized sales shelves to the left and
the waiting area to the right.
The shelves are filled with products in simple, easy to
understand packaging that makes the buying experience more pleasurable. Around
the shelves, there are faux succulents and ivy that give the natural wood display
shelves even more character. eSalon even decorated the shelves with display
color kits so client may see how their at-home color kit looks like when it
arrives in the mail.
The waiting area to the right is furnished with a large blue
chaise lounge decorated with a variety of throw pillows to add that extra touch
of comfort. A white circle coffee table and pink velvet chairs complete the set
to give this unique studio a very welcoming feel. A small server sideboard sits
in the corner which offers Nespresso coffee, tea, and water for patrons to help
themselves to whatever they please.
A small set of stairs brings you up to the color floor where
four style chairs sit two to a wall with a display table of the most popular
products in the center. Natural wooden floating cabinets with drawers and a
faux white counter tops line each wall as stations for stylists to keep their
tools and clients to rest their bags in. Simple, yet colorful artwork hangs on
the walls while more faux succulents accent each style station and it’s backbar
products for stylists to demo on clients.
Continuing into the back of the salon are the shampoo bowls
and the restroom. The shampoo area boasts high-end European backwash stations
where stylists stand behind the bowl rather than hunched over, next to the
bowl. This gives an even more relaxing feel.
Connected to the shampoo area is the restroom. Word of
inspiration saying, “You look marvelous” decorates the mirror in front of the vessel
style sink. Accented with modern white subway tiles above the faux marble countertop,
this restroom makes you wish you could update yours.
Walking into this space makes one feel like they’ll be
spending a million bucks but instead, they’ll leave feeling like they look like
a million bucks for $120 at most.
Compared the other spaces I’ve working this one definitely
makes me proud to show off where I work.
This summer, California and New York outlawed dress codes or
grooming policies that prohibit wearing afros, braids, twists, and other such
hairstyles. These bills have been introduced in a wake of recent incidents
where students and workers were discriminated against because of their
hairstyles. Some of which include a New Jersey high schooler who was told to
cut off his dreadlocks or forfeit his wrestling match, a Catholic school in Louisiana
which sent home a student because her hair extensions were considered “unacceptable,”
and a former Mississippi news anchor who alleges she was discriminated against
for wearing her natural curls.
When signing the bill, New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo said, “For
much of our nation’s history, people of color – particularly women – have been
marginalized and discriminated against simply because of their hairstyle or texture.”
A recent study conducted by the Creating a Respectful and
Open World for Natural Hair (CROWN) coalition reported that black women are 80
percent more likely to change their hair to conform to Eurocentric social
norms. This is why many black women will often get their hair chemically straightened
or wear wigs to hide their natural curls.
Many black Americans don’t feel they are able to wear their natural
curls, and some are even told they aren’t allowed to wear hairstyles designed
for their natural curls. Having to straighten their curls or wear a wig for job
interviews is common for many to feel more confident against discrimination.
As California Governor Gavin Newsom signed the Crown Act into
law, he said this was “long-overdue.” This law will empower black students and
employees to feel confident expressing themselves by being able to choose to
wear natural hairstyles.
Noliwe Rooks, a professor of African studies at Cornell
University told USA Today that ever since the 1800’s, wearing black hairstyles
was used as a political policing symbol for a black identity that doesn’t want
to assimilate. Gov. Cuomo said, “We are taking an important step toward
correcting that history and ensuring people of color are protected from all forms
of discrimination.”
As a colorist, I’m always getting clients who tell me their hair is red or yellow or brassy and they want to be a cool tone. Often times people don’t even know what cool tones are. I like to begin by referring to the Lighting Curve by Wella.
This image was found on Salons Direct’s blog article, “Discover Colour Touch by Wella.”
what are cool tones?
The lighting curve shows the hair’s natural underlying
pigments when it is lightened. The numbers on the side and top of the lighting curve
show the different levels of shades the hair is. Level 10 being lightest blonde,
level 2 being natural black, and level 5 being most brunettes. Next, consider
the color wheel on the bottom right of the chart. These are the main colors to
consider when coloring hair. Warm tones are yellow, orange, and red. Cool tones
are violet, blue, and green.
The hair naturally pulls warm toned. To neutralize unwanted
warm tones, cool tones must be applied to the hair so it may be a neutral or
cool tone. Refer back to the color wheel. Purple neutralizes yellow, blue
neutralizes orange, and green neutralizes red. Different levels of lightness
require different colors to neutralize such warm tones.
For example, natural blondes will lift to a yellow color;
therefore, requiring a purple toned neutralizer. On naturally black hair or hair
that has been colored dark brunette will pull red, so a green neutralizer is
needed. Typically, this color is called “ash.” Finding the proper toned
neutralizer should effectively take the hair from a warm, brassy tone to a cool
tone.
what does all of this mean?
If you don’t like the brassy red or yellow tones in your hair, instead of picking up another box of permanent hair dye to pull through your already processed ends, try using a toner to cancel out those unwanted tones! As mentioned in the example above, I’m a natural blonde so I use violet toners to make my hair look more cool toned or ashy. When my clients with naturally black hair come in, I use a green/blue toner on them to make their brassy, red/orange hair a nice cool brown color.
Though these colors are NOT permanent. Even if they say “permanent color,” the cool tones WILL FADE. Let me say it a little louder for the people in the back, COOL TONES WILL FADE. If you want to keep your pretty pearl ash from looking like a golden copper, you MUST maintain your hair with toners!
how to get cool tones?
In full-service salons, they’ll typically put toners on immediately after any lightening service. This means that any balayage, ombre, or highlights you may have had done were probably toned and often without you even realizing because it is usually applied at the shampoo bowl. Anyone can go into a salon at anytime to get just a toner without having a highlight service. A toner service would cost about $20-$80 in a salon.
There are also other alternative at-home toners that can easily be applied to cancel those unwanted brassy tones. Most people are familiar with purple shampoos like Shimmer Lights sold at Sally’s Beauty Supply. Purple shampoos can be useful but most of the ones I’ve tried (and believe me, I’ve tried a lot!) are not very useful and kindof just slow down the fading time of the in-salon toner.
My current favorite at-home products that I feel like ACTUALLY
WORK to cancel copper are the balance Tint Rinses by eSalon. I use the Blonde
Neutralizer on my hair every time I shampoo my hair.
Per the instructions, I shampoo my hair first, then use the
Tine Rinse by focusing it on the parts I feel need it the most. The directions
say to leave it on for 2-3 minutes, though because I’ve played around with it
some (by accidentally turning my hair purple then simply shampooing and scrubbing
it out) I’ve learned that my hair likes 5 minutes. That’s the amount of time it
takes me to wash my face and my body. Then I’ll rinse it out and follow it with
my favorite conditioner.
This product keeps my pretty pearl from turning into a ghastly golden!
what about unwanted red tones?
For those with darker hair who tend to pull those orange and red tones, eSalon has toners for you too! The Soft Red Neutralizer and the Red Neutralizer are great for those with orange and red tones, respectively. Those are my GO-TO products when I’m toning clients in the studio. And my favorite part about it is that it only costs $15! So if the salon charges $40 for a toner, I could buy three Tint Rinses that will last WAY longer!
Everyone’s hair is different so everyone will need to use these
products differently. Play around with it a bit. If you try it and it doesn’t
do anything, try leaving it on for longer, or using more product to ensure the
hair is fully saturated.
Use it as frequently as needed. I use Tint Rinse every time I shampoo, but maybe you only need it every other or every third time you shampoo. If you accidentally leave it on too long and your hair looks purple or green (oh my!), simply use shampoo in those over-toned areas and scrub the hair with your hands. By the time you wash it out, it should look like that beautiful cool ash tone you’ve been dye-ing for!
looking for something extra?
If you’re looking for a little bit more toning action to give a pretty pearl effect while adding moisture back into the hair, try the Blonde Neutralizing Toning Mask. This product is definitely one of my all-time favorites for toning. What I love about it? First, it gives a really pretty pearly color that to me seems like an iridescence. Most importantly?! It adds moisture back into the hair!
No matter what those other toners say about making the hair
shinier and healthier, if they use developers which are opening the cuticle
layer to allow the color to soak in, it’s not as healthy as simply using a deep
conditioner. And that’s what the Toning Mask is! I like to describe it as a purple
deep conditioner.
After shampooing, I like to towel dry my hair (though that’s not totally necessary). In the very least, wring the excess water out. This will allow the conditioner to soak in the hair better. Then I’ll apply the entire tube throughout my entire head (because my whole head is colored blonde). I’ll leave it on for 15 minutes every other week.
This really gives my hair that added moisture it’s been needing while taking my color back to a cool, silvery beige color. This product is a little bit more at $5 for a single-use tube of product, but let me tell you that it is SO WORTH IT!
As summer comes to an end and festival season starts to wrap up, it’s probably time for a post summer refresh. While you were having fun in the sun, your hair was probably fading. Even though it’s nice being at the beach with all that sun, sand, and water, your hair was getting dry and damaged from all that sun and salt. Here are a couple ideas to help give your hair a healthy refresh from all this dry heat!
refresh your tone
A lot of people get highlights in the beginning of summer but don’t refresh them after they’ve faded. With how popular the silver hair trend is, few people want to have brassy hair. A full color service isn’t necessary to bring it back to what it was when they first got done. Most often, people just need a simple gloss or toning treatment.
This service is going to be a lot cheaper and easier than having to sit through a full color and highlight service. A gloss or toner (both terms are used interchangeably) can be a great way to take that tone back to what it was supposed to be. Take that ghastly golden back to the pretty pearl it originally was.
update your products
With the dry heat summer still upon us, protecting from sun damage is super important! Using a leave-in conditioner paired with an argan oil is a great start to every morning routine! Whether blow-dry styling, flat ironing, or just wearing your natural texture, these products can help maintain any hair style from heat, sun damage, and external elements.
Using leave-ins is so great because it also softens, detangles, de-frizzes, tames flyaways, eases styling, and protects against breakage. It’s a great go-to that is a must for any style routine!
I will always put a lot in my hair after a shower then I put more in every morning. Everybody’s hair type and texture is different, so I always tell people to start with a little bit then add more as needed. It’s easy to put more on, but it’s not easy to take it out. There are so many leave-ins and oils out there on the market! Find the one that’s right for you, your hair, and your budget!
Good Hair Daze 